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Healing waters: The Japanese onsen experience

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Soaking up one of Japan's best-loved traditions is a tonic for both mind and body
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For a brief moment, I feel like a Japanese snow monkey -- those furry, red-faced creatures that descend from the cliffs and forests of Nagano to sit and soak in hot spring water.

Flakes fall around me. Steam drifts into the air. I’ve nothing much on my mind.

It’s after 7 a.m. and I’m tout nu inside a private bath on a terrace at Arcana, a boutique hotel hidden in the trees of Japan’s Izu Peninsula.

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